Does Rohrbaugh use an air gun to tighten grip screws?

[Chinook]

I'm finally ready to put my new VZs on my R9 Elite but am sweating bullets about how to get the original grips off.  I have a wiha tool set with a 1/16" hex driver that fits the screws tightly but just using the bit's screwdriver handle doesn't work.  I can put a small wrench on the bit itself and really get some torque but I'm afraid of damaging the screws.

I actually bought (from Rohrbaugh) a set of Hogue Extreme Series G10 grips back in 2009 but never installed them because of this same problem and the fact that the Hogue grips had almost the same shape as the original grips so I didn't think there was much to be gained.  BTW, the hogue grips came with Torx T6 screws.  Why is Rohrbaugh and VZ still using hex???

Now, I'm determined.  Do I just soldier on?  Can I use a wrench on the hex bit?

Thanks

[Richard S]

I believe the company uses a touch of LocTite on the grip screws before shipping the R9s from the factory. LocTite recommends applying heat to the screw in order to help break the bond.  Try touching the screw head for a few seconds with a small, hot soldering iron. Then insert the hex key into the screw head and hold the soldering iron against the shaft of the key near the screw head for another few seconds. That may do the trick.

If worse comes to worst and you strip the screw head, a small GraBit damaged-screw remover mounted in a power drill set on slow reverse can remove the screw. (Don't ask me how I know that.  )





_{[Edit: Corrected typo]}

[Chinook]

Great... Now I have to remember where I put my soldering iron. It was last used back on "ninety -two".  Anyone over 65 will relate to this problem 

[Chinook]

I'm happy to report that the soldering iron was found (just before I bought another); it was under a box on my workbench...

The VZs are on and feel great.  Now, it's off to the range.

I do have two observations:

1.  The little spring and linking bar came off when the right side grip was removed but they went back on with no problem.  The two studs holding the trigger and clip release also came up with the grip (pretty tight fit in the grip) but fortunately, the clip restraint stayed in-place.

2.  The original grip screws were considerably tighter than my replacements.  I had to use torque using the long end of the hex driver to remove the original screws.  I did the replacements just finger tight.  The back screws on either side tightened right up for the front screws just kept going and going and I finally stopped without really liking the tightness but afraid to go further.

[Richard S]

I'm glad the soldering iron trick worked for you. The GraBit option is a "dicey" one.

You might want to consider ordering some of "Yankee's" O-rings for the grip screws. I use O-rings on the grips screws of all my handguns.

[bamboobob]

On a recent call to Rohrbaugh for some parts I learned they suggest      "Medium"      LocTite.
     
A little looking found  -
 
Threadlocking - Medium strength, low viscosity, small threads threadlocker, Breakaway torque 11.5Nm 

[Faawrenchbndr]

clear nail polish is an even better option

[Reinz]

clear nail polish is an even better option

That's been working well for me too.

[bamboobob]

Sounds good to me too.
Cheaper easy and to get.
Do you put it on threads only ?  What about  making it "low viscosity" with solvent  or using solvent during removal?

[tracker]

As suggested by Richard, I recommend using only the "O" rings. Most of the problems encountered and documented on this forum have been related to screws too tight. The factory must err on the side of screws being too tight because of the trigger malfunction possibility if the screws are loose. Never having had the problem of screws working loose, I use the "O" rings and routinely check the tightness with a proper tool.

[backupr9]

I use the O-rings but still find that the screws are loose after 30 to 50 rounds downrange.  Someone posted that during cleaning one should remove the grips and pass a pipe cleaner into the screw holes to remove oil before replacing the grips...this does help, but I usually don't remove the grips during routine cleaning.  Having had a frame replaced due to stripped screw sockets (caused by the loctite placed at the factory when I sent it back because I couldn't get the screws to loosen and stripped the head on one) I'm a bit leary about putting anything on the screws.  It seems simple to me to just tighten the screws over the O-rings after a range trip...keep the correct hex in your range bag for extended practice sessions.

[Reinz]

Sounds good to me too.
Cheaper easy and to get.
Do you put it on threads only ?  What about  making it "low viscosity" with solvent  or using solvent during removal?

Yes, just apply to the threads.

I use brake cleaner or solvent to clean it off when cleaning the gun.  I make sure threads are dry before applying fn polish.

[Buffalo]

Do you apply the brake cleaner to clean the oil off the screw area or are you using it to some how desolve the loctite to remove the screws?

[PsychoSword]

On my original R9s the grip screws wouldn't turn out the screws all turned off at the head. I think they might be better now, but I haven't heard, they could still be retarded.. I was told "why would you want to ever take the grips off".. ya, someone actually asked me that question, about a $1k gun... anyways, I believe the oxidation of the frame combined with the poor heads on teh stainless screws create a huge problem when someone wants to take them off.

[tracker]

That is a big 10-4 on the oxidation of dissimilar metals; the problem has been alleviated with the advent of some solutions like John's excellent screws. As Richard suggested, in any case, it is a good idea to exercise them once in awhile.