I once pulled an AR apart, tagged each piece with my name and address, boxed it up and sent it out for Dura Coat. Took maybe 30 minutes to take it apart and put it back together. Dura Coat is not bad but it's just paint.
Wilson Armor Tuff is a really good coating that will probably outlast you. For $270 it's not that expensive considering it's a lifetime coating, and it's tough! You'll have to remove the slide, barrel, grips, and a few other small pieces. Tag each piece (or bag the small pieces with your name) and send it all to Wilson Combat.
As you can tell I'm a big fan of Armor Tuff. I have a rifle that's going to Wilson later this year. I was going to buy a regular 'ol R9S and do what you're doing - send it out for Armor Tuff. But when I called Tom and he said he could get a Special Forces sooner rather than later... I took the hit and bought the R9S already Armor Tuff coated. Looking back - I could have saved $300 by following my original plan. Either way - nice gun and nice coating.
Molybdenum disulphide has a compressive strength of over 450,000 psi. Teflon compressive strength is only 375 psi. I don't know Robar and I'm not certain why they say Teflon adds lubricity and extends the weapons life. Any force in excess of 375 psi will just tear right through the Teflon.
However I did notice their Roguard product is a molybdenum disulphide-based coating which appears to be very similar to Armor Tuff. That's the stuff. Their NP3 is nickel and Teflon - probably not the stuff (in my opinion). Robar looks like a good company so I don't think you can go wrong.
It'll be interesting to see how these different coatings look and perform. I like experimentation!
