How to remove screws

[Aglifter]

I'm guessing just shoot it, until they get loose?  I tried unscrewing them before, w.o. shooting it first, and it didn't go well.  

I've decided to have some silver grips made for it -- I think I should be able to get them to fit properly, since I'm using silversmiths who regularly work on pistols.  (Have to talk to them first, but I want to show them the grips.  Ideally, I'd get hogue to mill them from silver -- might end up doing that, actually.  (They, Lopez Bros., regularly work w. Hogue.)

[kanuist]

I didn't have any trouble getting the grip screws to come out.  And the first time I did it was before I shot it.

Just use the short end of the allen wrench, so you have the long side for leverage.

[Aglifter]

Yeah...  I tried using a new craftsman pro allen wrench to turn it loose -- worked the first time I tried, but I broke out the screws the last time I tried.  Did anyone ever find a solution for the galvanic reaction on the screws -- I'm presuming that was the source of the white powder round the screws.

I got lucky, and my 'smith managed to mill a slot in the head w.o. marking the screws.  (I was not happy when Rohrbaugh said "screws aren't a warranty issue.  I used the 222MS they spec'd to secure them, and used a high quality tool to attempt to remove them -- IMO, it is a design flaw -- not a big deal, as it's not that serious of one, and every product will have some, but I don't think much of their recalcitrance in addressing it.)

Would using a soldering iron to heat the screw head help?  Or just cause more problems?

[tracker]

The galvanic corrosion issue is an ongoing problem. In a much discussed previous thread where one of my screw heads failed at the range The R bros. extracted the failed screw and installed new ones. I strongly suggest that owners either move their screws or change them out every year or so, especially in a humid climate.

[kjtrains]

Makes sense to me!

[sslater]

I think the white powder you're finding around the grip screws is the residue from sheared thread locking compound.

Rohrbaugh told me some time ago that they use a Loctite -type thread locker on all the grip screws.  That's why they're usually hard to remove the first time.  The Loctite rep taught us a trick for breaking the bond - heat the fastener to a couple hundred degrees F.  I just heat up my fine tipped soldering iron & touch the screw head for a few seconds.   Carbon fiber and G10 are very heat resistant, so there's not much chance of damaging the two most popular grip materials.  It takes over 1700 degrees F. to melt silver, so there should be no problem there, either.  

BTW:  I also had a screw head pop off.  First trip to the range after warranty work at Rohrbaugh.  Fired a dozen rounds.  Put the gun back in my pocket.  At home, I went to clean the guns I had fired, & noticed that the upper right grip screw head on my R9 had disappeared!  Sheared right off...I didn't even bother Rohrbaugh because I had ordered some spare screws.  I'm not a big fan of socket head screws. There is very little metal to take the clamping stress once a socket head recess is broached into the screw head.  When I was designing fastener systems, we used socket head screws only as a last resort when there wasn't room for anything else.  

Anyway, I generally check my grip screws after every range session, & use clear nail polish as a (gentle) thread locking compound.

Steve
  
  

[tracker]

Steve,

Couldn't the white residue also be indicative of corrosion as Aglifter suggests? It was one clue we used to look for on carrier aircraft because corrosion was rampant in that environment.

[sslater]

Tracker,
I suppose the white powder could be corrosion, and not thread sealer residue.

Just going by the most likely scenario, I'd think it's plastic:
1. If the factory uses thread locking compound on all the grip screws, there's very little place for corrosion to start.
2. The ambient conditions on a ship at sea are a lot more hostile than in a guy's pocket.  Still, I've known guys who have such acidic sweat that they could rot the link pins in their wristwatches in six months.  So anything's possible

The sure way to find out is to have a lab analyze a sample- if it's aluminum oxide, you have corrosion; if it's polymer then the stuff is thread locking compound.  

[Richard S]

My answer to the galvanic corrosion issue is to remove the grips at every other cleaning or so and then spray and wipe down the lot -- frame, grip screws, and grips (if using the OD aluminimum panels instead of CFs) with Ballistol, "the ultimate survival juice."  

[tracker]

I was thinking the same thing, Richard, except with "Corrosion X" as maybe an alternative but both should work as a preventive measure.

[kanuist]

Does anyone know what size screws these are?

There are some new coated screws out there that are designed to be used in salt water environments.  They are better than stainless, so they say.

The coated layer should provide protection between the two metals and prevent the galvanic problem.

I'd like to see a torx screw instead of the allen.

[tracker]

New screws like that are the solution but I don't see any movement that direction.

[Richard S]

Does anyone know what size screws these are?

* * *

kanuist:

The material at this link may be of interest:

http://www.acbsystems.com/boards/rohrbaugh/basefile/gripscrews.htm

[whkrog]

A note (likely repeated elsewhere): Wiha Quality Tools, of Monticello, MN makes TONS of terrific-quality tools, included a great 1/16" handled hex wrench (Item #96316) which is perfect for removing/tightening the Rohrbaugh grip screws.
Their website is:
http://www.wihatools.com, and there is a page there which lists distributors of their products.
You can also order them online if you like.
BEWARE! Tool geeks can spend much money here!

[Aglifter]

I have a bad habit of carrying my pup everywhere -- I have to keep after the mag plates, as I get corrosion in them on a regular basis.  (The mix room is quite corrosive -- lots of sanitizers, CIP chemicals, some acidic fumes, etc.  Really monel is the only thing that is completely inert in that environment.)

I normally carry my Glock in there, but usually it's one of those "I'll just stop in real quick on my way to..." things that turns into a full day dealing w. something.