Of Disassembly and Assembly...

[eblackhawk]

Well...After my extended shooting session with the R9S, I figured it was time to take it down and clean it.  I put the pup in a padded vise and put RJ's StopStick (patent pending, I'm sure!) where it goes and the pin hole was matched up perfectly!  Using a 1/16" punch, I proceeded to tap, tap a little harder, and tap harder yet and still that baby budged ever so little.  I finally had to give it some forceful whacks and then it was easily liberated.  I took the rest of it apart as per instructions with no problem, cleaned and lubed the pup as it was very dirty. Don't know if all that dirt was due to using the WWB or Wolf ammo but using Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner it was sparkling in no-time ( if it's "no-time", how can you possibly quantify that?)! Used Superlube and Hoppes Elite Gun oil on it and then it was ready for re-assembly.  I tried using the channel locks for the spring re-assembly but I actually found that using my fingers was easier.  Once again using the StopStick I was able to line up the pin hole but getting that THING! (actually, the pin) inserted  made me break out in a sweat!  I used the plastic handle of a screwdriver to knock it in partways and then it was back to the punch to drive it in the rest!  So, the question I have for forum members that have dis-assembled and assembled the pup is this: Does it ever get easier to take out and re-insert that pin?  Other than that, I was in awe of the beautiful cnc machining on this baby!  The care and attention that the brothers R put in to this is readily apparent.
On another note, two observations that would improve my shooting this baby. 1) a magazine finger rest, and 2) I have to get some of that skateboarding tape to put on the front and back part of the grips so I can have a slip-free hold of the gun.  As I stated in my original report, shooting one handed I had no problem whatsoever but using a two handed grip  made me re-adjust  my hold after every shot.  Fortunately my son was watching me for I wasn't even conscious that I was doing that!  Anyway, now I'm ready to start carrying the pup!
                                           Eric

[R9SCarry]

Eric yes - ''that pin'' does IMO get easier - simply thru familiarization and practice even tho a fiddly operation.

Use of a third hand like the vice RJ uses (see section in FAQ site) helps plus really just experimenting to find what works for you.

WWB and Wolf will IMO make quite a bit of mess - in fact someone recently reckoned WWB had gotten dirtier!

I too find no need for channel grips - always do it by hand - again practice makes it slowly easier.

I find despite large hands that I can keep a pretty consistent grip on the pup - but grip tape is I think (aesthetics aside!) a useful addition.  A pinkie rest would be nice but that would add just a bit maybe to problems getting out of pocket.

I must add my own grip pics to the FAQ site I think in case it helps.

[eblackhawk]

Thanks Chris, I appreciate the reply.  Most of my other small guns (Kahr PM9, Kel-Tec P3-AT,Walther PPK/S) have finger extentions on the mag and yet I've had no problem drawing from pocket holsters.  I definitely will be thinking about putting the grip tape on comparing how I shot last weekend to the next shooting session, which I hope will be soon!  Thanks again!      
                   Eric

[SAWBONES]

"Once again using the StopStick I was able to line up the pin hole but getting that THING! (actually, the pin) inserted  made me break out in a sweat!"

I find that the StopStick doesn't help as much during REassembly as during DISassembly, since all that must be done during disassembly is to line up the pin with the slide holes in one dimension (fore-aft), after which the barrel "link pin" is easily tapped out from right to left.
On reassembly, however, the vertical movement of which the barrel is capable enters the equation, and since the StopStick bears against the barrel hood (upper chamber mouth), it keeps the barrel from easily moving in any dimension, thus the up-down position of the barrel (which can't be too high or too low, or the "link pin" will hit steel lug material rather than the lug hole) is difficult to adjust.
 
I find it as easy to reassemble the slide to the frame by simply holding the pistol right side down and retracting the slide by hand while using a free fingertip to apply pressure to the tip of the pin as said pin sits already inserted in the left slide hole; suddenly, it just sort of "drops in", with almost no resistance.
Still it would be easier if I had three hands.

[eblackhawk]

Okay, now I KNOW I didn't put the pin back right since I had to use considerable force to do so.  You can be sure that next time I'll try it your way and hopefully it will work out.  Bottom line is that the whole process was a breeze for me except for the business with the pin.
                                                       Eric

[WoodstockDoug]

When I brought my R9 to my gunsmith to ask about Teflon coating, he broke it down by hand, without any tools other than the punch.  He lined up the holes without any stop aids, but he was extremely frustrated for nearly 10 minutes getting the spring reassembled.  He completely refused to reach for pliers... said he believed it could and should be done by hand, and he just had to get the feel for it.  After about 10 minutes of struggling, he changed his grip and held the spring assembly much the way you would hold a syringe, and he was able to pop it in and out with ease several times.  My pin needed a punch to take out, and he used a punch to put it back in, but it required very little pressure at all.

I wasn't able to do it as easily as he did, but it wasn't that difficult.

[eblackhawk]

Thanks guys, NOW I feel confident that next time I'll have 'er licked!
            Eric

[HiCap]

"On reassembly, however, the vertical movement of which the barrel is capable enters the equation, and since the StopStick bears against the barrel hood (upper chamber mouth), it keeps the barrel from easily moving in any dimension, thus the up-down position of the barrel (which can't be too high or too low, or the "link pin" will hit steel lug material rather than the lug hole) is difficult to adjust.
 
.

That's what I found.  Thanks for the explanation.  I had trouble with moving the barrel to line up the kidney shaped slot.  I have my thirs hand coming an dit should hepl, thanks to RJ's hint.

HiCap

[sslater]

Guys,
I think I reported in another thread the trick I've found to make reassembly pretty easy with the Stop Stick, my teeth and a bit of Wonder Lube grease in the barrel's kidney shaped hole.
1. Scratch the Stop Stick at the depth you inserted it for disassembly.
2. When reassembling, I hold the Stop Stick in my teeth and slide it into place while holding the slide open with my two hands.
3. Fiddle around until the Stop Stick is inserted to the scratch line.  Turn the gun so its left side is up.  Put the pin into the assembly hole in the slide.
4. Put your index finger over the muzzle of the barrel and your second finger on the slide itself. Then ease the barrel / slide back with finger pressure until the pin can drop into place.

Once you do it a few times, the operation becomes pretty routine.  And as I said before, it's a LOT easier than reassembling a Ruger Mk II .22 pistol.  I still have to look at the instructions each time I reassemble it!

[MountainMan]

Should the pin be greased or left dry

[tracker]

I have wondered this about many pins: BHP; 1911; AR-15
etc. and after many disassys and reassys have come to no
other conclusion other than won't hurt; might help.

[sslater]

The pin and the kidney-shaped hole in the barrel (equivalent to the link on a 1911)  take a pounding every time a round is fired.  As the barrel & slide move rearward during recoil, it's the pin that forces the barrel to unlock and drop down.

If there's relative motion between parts, they should be lubed.  Because of the extremely high forces involved, the pin and "link" on all my pistols get (lightly) greased.

[Chuck_S]

The pin on R93x comes out only with hammering.  And I have to smack it to get it back in.

Next time apart I'll see where the tight part is.

Lube instructions call for grease in the link, so oiling the pin is redundant.

-- Chuck

[Michigunner]

I put some grease on both ends of the pin, thinking it would help it slip out.

Bill

[Aglifter]

Anyone know why my pin would be getting harder to remove, it pushed right out w. a length of brass rod after its first 50 rounds, but now it get's stuck in the far side of the frame, and I have to use a, padded, pair of pliers to pull it out -- it still pushes in, but only w. a pretty good "umph"