Re-assembly is difficult

[Michigunner]

I finally took the R9S apart today, in preparation for a long-term carry session.

The re-assembly was one of the most unpleasant encounters I've ever had wih a firearm.  Next time, I'm seriously thinking of taking it to a gun shop.

I used some coarse words.

We need a tool.

Bill  (I edited this post because it was too grouchy)

[theirishguard]

Hey Bill, easy big guy!!!!

Settle down and take a deep breath.

Did you rush the job or give yourself lots of time?

Tom

[itguy]

Hey Bill,

Just how far did you break it down?

[Michigunner]

Tom, I don't know.  It was like a big blur.

itguy, I did the standard breakdown, but did not remove the right grip.

Well, now that the ordeal is over, it is clear that the next time will be easier.  It probably just takes a little practice.  Usually the first time stripping a gun is a little awkward.

I apologize for the negative attitude.

Bill

[SAWBONES]

I didn't find my new R-9S very easy to disassemble or reassemble either. It's a three-hand or two-person job removing and reseating that barrel pin!
I hope Mr. Hedley's "stop stick" helps. (I ordered one from him today.)


Just parenthetically, breaking down Kahr slides to their component parts is another task to frustrate even the truly-patient. Fortunately, I've now divested myself of those four Kahrs I had (nasty things!), in fact I traded in two of them when picking up the R-9S!
The R9 is much more nicely made and shows significantly better quality control than the Kahr products, IMNSHO.

[Michigunner]

SAWBONES,

RJ's StopStick helped me tremendously, both disassembly and reassembly.

I did ask my wife to help position the StopStick during reassembly.

The biggest problem I had was compressing the spring.  I reluctantly used channel locks, per the instruction book.

Then, I could not get the slide to go back, so the pin could be reinserted.  It was just  inexperience during the initial effort.

I had  to rack it real hard, and that opened things up so the StopStick could be inserted.

It wasn't much fun the first time, but should be just fine in the future.

One good idea is to place it in a vise, surrounded by protective leather, and proceed to work on it.  RJ was kind enough to send some leather, upon request, along with my order.

My Kahr PM9 wasn't all that easy.  I would bang on it with the plastic end of a screwdriver.  And then, pry out the pin with a plastic orange peeler.

The R9S is a lot more fun to have, to look at, and carry.

Bill

[Michigunner]

I think we need to find a small pair of pliers made out of  plastic, and cut out some material, as required.  This would help get the spring compressed, and everthing put back together.

If anybody has an idea, would you please tell.

I was talking with 'mismatch' once, and he didn't feel good about using metal tools against the spring assembly.

I feel the same way.  I hate to scratch the insides of a $1,000 gun using a metal appliance.  Some kind of plastic apparatus would be highly desirable.

Bill

[sslater]

Michigunner,
You'll get the hang of it with practice.  I don't like to chuck up those beautiful carbon fiber grips in my vise so I usually hold the gun in my hands & insert the Stop Stick with my teeth!!  

As I mentioned B4, the trick in reinstalling the assembly pin is to insert the Stop Stick only as far as the disassembly mark you scribed on the stick.  Then, with the gun turned left-side up, ease the slide back with your finger over the muzzle of the barrel.  With minimal jiggling, the pin hole in the silde should then line up with the frame's hole.

BTW:  I can now reassemble my .22 Ruger Mark II on the first try - as long as I review the instructions first.  You have to point it up, sideways and down in the right order or you're in for an embarrassing trip to the gunsmith.  

  

[HiCap]

This is the beauty of the Rs over the R.  Push the front sight against the edge of a wooden work bench just enough to see the pin and push through with a punch.  I've been using the little tube that comes with bottles and cans of lubricant, like break free.  reassebmly is the same to line everything up again.  Problem is with slippery fingers on the reassembly.  Try it after dinner and a few pops if you want some laughs.  That's the roar in Rohrbaugh you hear.

HiCap

[Michigunner]

Thanks, gentlemen.

sslater, holding the StopStick in the mouth sounds like a good idea.  

I was doing pretty well, except for getting the spring assembly back on the barrel, which was in the slide.

Practice will make everything right.  

Bill

[Michigunner]

Do we have an engineer in the ranks, who could sketch appropriately shaped 'pliers', which we could cut from a plastic sheet, and maybe join with nut and bolt?

If such a person steps forward, I will sing folk songs about them for years into the future.

Bill

[RJ HEDLEY]

Find yourself a smaller pair of Channel Locks,  the ones about 10'' long.   Next, glue a small narrow strip of leather on the face of eack jaw,  let dry well before using..  I have a pair I've used for a while..  Need leather, think of some old leather items you can cut up,  don't cut up your holster,  E-mail me..



Edited to change from 6'' to 10'' channel locks..  

[Michigunner]

Well, I now have an idea about a tool to get the spring back in place, rather than using channel lock pliers.

Would this work at all?

Take a strong piece of plastic, about the size of a popsycle stick, except maybe thicker and wider.

Cut it into two equal pieces.

On one side of each stick, in the middle, cut out a half-circle.

Then, put each stick on the appropriate part of the spring assembly, where the channel lock pliers went, using the half-circle to guide it into place.

With each hand, pull the two ends toward each other, which will compress the spring, while keeping the sticks parallel to each other.

Set the spring into its place, and release the pressure.

Any comments?

Bill

[Michigunner]

RJ,

I didn't see your post, before doing mine.

I'll pickup  6" channel lock pliers.

That sounds like a good idea.

Bill

[MountainMan]

Bill,
You have been on the forum longer than myself and you read all of the posts about stripping the R9 and reassembly - and you say it was still very hard the first time.  Now you have me a little scared and my R9 isn't even here yet.

RJ's idea on the leather over channel locks seems graet.  I see that Sears sales plactic covers for pliers and channel locks to protect the metal surface.  

Let us know if it was easier the second time.

Dave