VZ GRIPS

[yankee2500]

John.  You are now asleep.  I understand!                

I think it was a result of reading the last page.

[kjtrains]

I think it was a result of reading the last page.

I think that was understood!                

[Joe_from_NY]

Never mind

[Dzozer]

Hi all,

I got a pair of VZ grips today (checkered black/cherry) and I love the way they feel on the weapon. I have run into a snag and was hoping someone has a picture of the inside of the right grip (the one with the cutout) , after installing mine I noticed a rattle where there had been none before. The weapon seems to function fine however the trigger is noticeably loose and wobbly. I took off the grip and reinstalled the factory one, no rattle and the trigger tightened right up. I looked at the cutout on the VZ and noticed that it was different in dimension than the factory grip. It seems that the VZ is pressing on the transfer bar spring and when I take the VZ off, the spring pops out of the hole in the transfer bar. I'm including a picture of the insides of the factory and VZ grips. I noticed a difference in the thickness at the backstrap area, the front of the grip and the lower cutout is wider on the factory grip. I don't know if this matters or not? It could be user error on my part. I can't imagine I'm the only one with this issue and I'm not knocking VZ in any way. I really want these to work on my pistol but I can't take the rattle and loose trigger. Maybe I'm not installing them correctly, any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks, Mike

I'm having a very similar problem, except that there is enough play for the wrench shaped plate (transfer bar?) to slip off and the hammer fails to rise.  I tried re-installing them and made very sure that the screws were tightened correctly, but still have the hammer fail to engage every few trigger pulls.  I put the factory grips back on, and the problem disappeared.  The picture jmoh posted is exactly how mine look.
I'm not sure if these are somehow different - it's a R9 Stealth SN 21## - but I'm a long time customer of VZ - I'm sure they'll take care of it.
But does anyone know, are there subtle frame differences between models?

[yankee2500]

I would venture to guess there are no frame differences between models.
   Have you checked the depth of the machined recess on both sets of grips ? It sounds like the VZs may be a bit deeper and this is causing the issue.

I just checked my factory grip an Aluma-Grip and the VZ grip and the recess on the VZ grip is fifty thousandths while the factory G-10 grip and the Aluma-Grip are sixty thousandths deep.
  So the recess on VZ grip I have is not as deep as the factory grip.

[yankee2500]

Never mind

Joe,  Welcome to the group from a former Western New Yorker.

[jmoh]

Couldn't get mine to work, no matter what I tried. Called VZ twice, spoke to someone twice and was told I'd get a call back twice. I give up, they're going back to VZ.

[ACP]

I recently obtained a pair of (black cherry) VZ grips for my Robar R9. The only problem I had was getting them shipped. When I called the guy told me he had them in his hand (Monday) and they did not ship until the following Wednesday.

I have no interest in VZ apart from being a satisfied customer. It would seem that you got a bad pair of grips and you are justified in returning them.

[Mullin]

Anyone have their screws strip out of their new VZ grips?

Do you mean the threads or the hex indentation in the screw's head stripped out?  If the head, I found that the hex tool that came with the VZ grips wobbled slightly when inserted into the head - which could easily strip the head when force is applied.   I had a Sears Craftsman 1/16" hex tool in my tool box and found that this fit tight in the head.   Using the Sears tool I removed the factory screws and installed the VZ screws with no problem.

Could it be that VZ is sending the wrong size tool with the grips?

[yankee2500]

I would be inclined to believe the allen wrench supplied with the grips and screws is of low quality and is the correct size but not made from high quality material or to exacting standards.

[jmoh]

I would use a good quality allen tool to take those screws out, the one that I got from VZ spun on the second attempt.

[Joe_from_NY]

Joe,  Welcome to the group from a former Western New Yorker.

Thanks for the welcome. I had posted a photo of a funny poster that involved a cup of coffee, but then deleted it as it had a bit of rough language, and i didnt want my first post to be about that. Anyway, for my new guy intro, i bought a stainless two-tone R9S two weeks ago, but then decided i really liked the Stealth model better, so i ordered one and am still waiting for it to get to my NY FFL from Arizona. I probably am not going to ever shoot my stainless one, and just sell it as soon as my Stealth comes in. Or else I might just keep it in the box as factory fresh for a while, i don't know. I like small pistols, and have two Seecamps, in .32 and .380 and a Kahr P380 that shoots smooth as silk and is 100% reliable. I just wanted to upgrade my carry caliber for a bit more punch. I am a bit spoiled by the Seecamp though.  I retired two years ago from the NYPD after 24 years. I always just had 2 wheel guns,  a SW model 10 on my hip and during off hours a SW model 36 on my belt. I got tired of carrying that heavy steel after all those years, and wanted something a bit lighter. This forum has great info and seems to have great brothers willing to help out.

[Z]

jmoh

I had the same experience with the VZ allen screws and wrench.

Throw out the VZ allen wrench and buy a HUDY from A Main Hobby. Wow what a difference.

[kjtrains]

A Wiha hex wrench is also good.  Joe_from_NY posted a link from Amazon where they are on sale; 1/16 inch.

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26316-Precision-Screwdriver-Inch/dp/B000O5ILMU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1304654363&sr=8-2

[Z]

Ken

I will have to check them out. Thank you.

Adam