The Rohrbaugh Forum
Rohrbaugh Products and Accessories => Rohrbaugh R9 (all variations) => Topic started by: Chinook on February 09, 2013, 03:17:20 AM
-
I'm finally ready to put my new VZs on my R9 Elite but am sweating bullets about how to get the original grips off. I have a wiha tool set with a 1/16" hex driver that fits the screws tightly but just using the bit's screwdriver handle doesn't work. I can put a small wrench on the bit itself and really get some torque but I'm afraid of damaging the screws.
I actually bought (from Rohrbaugh) a set of Hogue Extreme Series G10 grips back in 2009 but never installed them because of this same problem and the fact that the Hogue grips had almost the same shape as the original grips so I didn't think there was much to be gained. BTW, the hogue grips came with Torx T6 screws. Why is Rohrbaugh and VZ still using hex???
Now, I'm determined. Do I just soldier on? Can I use a wrench on the hex bit?
Thanks
-
I believe the company uses a touch of LocTite on the grip screws before shipping the R9s from the factory. LocTite recommends applying heat to the screw in order to help break the bond. Try touching the screw head for a few seconds with a small, hot soldering iron. Then insert the hex key into the screw head and hold the soldering iron against the shaft of the key near the screw head for another few seconds. That may do the trick.
If worse comes to worst and you strip the screw head, a small GraBit damaged-screw remover mounted in a power drill set on slow reverse can remove the screw. (Don't ask me how I know that. ::) )
[Edit: Corrected typo]
-
Great... Now I have to remember where I put my soldering iron. It was last used back on "ninety -two". Anyone over 65 will relate to this problem :P
-
I'm happy to report that the soldering iron was found (just before I bought another); it was under a box on my workbench... ;D
The VZs are on and feel great. Now, it's off to the range.
I do have two observations:
1. The little spring and linking bar came off when the right side grip was removed but they went back on with no problem. The two studs holding the trigger and clip release also came up with the grip (pretty tight fit in the grip) but fortunately, the clip restraint stayed in-place.
2. The original grip screws were considerably tighter than my replacements. I had to use torque using the long end of the hex driver to remove the original screws. I did the replacements just finger tight. The back screws on either side tightened right up for the front screws just kept going and going and I finally stopped without really liking the tightness but afraid to go further.
-
I'm glad the soldering iron trick worked for you. The GraBit option is a "dicey" one.
You might want to consider ordering some of "Yankee's" O-rings for the grip screws. I use O-rings on the grips screws of all my handguns.
-
On a recent call to Rohrbaugh for some parts I learned they suggest "Medium" LocTite.
A little looking found -
Threadlocking - Medium strength, low viscosity, small threads threadlocker, Breakaway torque 11.5Nm
-
clear nail polish is an even better option
-
clear nail polish is an even better option
That's been working well for me too.
-
Sounds good to me too.
Cheaper easy and to get.
Do you put it on threads only ? What about making it "low viscosity" with solvent or using solvent during removal?
-
As suggested by Richard, I recommend using only the "O" rings. Most of the problems encountered and documented on this forum have been related to screws too tight. The factory must err on the side of screws being too tight because of the trigger malfunction possibility if the screws are loose. Never having had the problem of screws working loose, I use the "O" rings and routinely check the tightness with a proper tool.
-
I use the O-rings but still find that the screws are loose after 30 to 50 rounds downrange. Someone posted that during cleaning one should remove the grips and pass a pipe cleaner into the screw holes to remove oil before replacing the grips...this does help, but I usually don't remove the grips during routine cleaning. Having had a frame replaced due to stripped screw sockets (caused by the loctite placed at the factory when I sent it back because I couldn't get the screws to loosen and stripped the head on one) I'm a bit leary about putting anything on the screws. It seems simple to me to just tighten the screws over the O-rings after a range trip...keep the correct hex in your range bag for extended practice sessions.
-
Sounds good to me too.
Cheaper easy and to get.
Do you put it on threads only ? What about making it "low viscosity" with solvent or using solvent during removal?
Yes, just apply to the threads.
I use brake cleaner or solvent to clean it off when cleaning the gun. I make sure threads are dry before applying fn polish.
-
Do you apply the brake cleaner to clean the oil off the screw area or are you using it to some how desolve the loctite to remove the screws?
-
On my original R9s the grip screws wouldn't turn out the screws all turned off at the head. I think they might be better now, but I haven't heard, they could still be retarded.. I was told "why would you want to ever take the grips off".. ya, someone actually asked me that question, about a $1k gun... anyways, I believe the oxidation of the frame combined with the poor heads on teh stainless screws create a huge problem when someone wants to take them off.
-
That is a big 10-4 on the oxidation of dissimilar metals; the problem has been alleviated with the advent of some solutions like John's excellent screws. As Richard suggested, in any case, it is a good idea to exercise them once in awhile.
-
Do you apply the brake cleaner to clean the oil off the screw area or are you using it to some how desolve the loctite to remove the screws?
NO- don't put any brake cleaner on your grip area! It will discolor them.
Pull your screws first, then use the BC to disolve the threads on the gun and screws. Spray on a pipe cleaner, brush, Q-tip or whatever mehod, but not directly from the can.
-
Thanks for the answer
-
Wonder why the factory doesn't just use better quality screws to begin with...
-
It is not just the screw quality that is at fault. The whole system needs an engineering modification.
- The screws are too small and low quality
-The holes are tapped directly into the alloy frame without a steel bushing or ferule
-The grip panels could be inletted into the frame (like Kimber does on the Solo) to take force off the screws
when the pistol is fired
Pistols costing 60% of what the R9 does have these features.
-
I finally received my Blue/Gray VZ grips from Rohrbaugh on Friday, and remembered seeing these posts about how hard the set screws were to remove. I too had no luck removing any of the screws with my first effort. I did see a comment that after a couple dozen rounds at the range, the gun was warm enough to help with removal, but no range time this weekend for me. So I heated my oven to 150 degrees (using a thermometer-not the oven display), turned it off to prevent any overheating, and put the R9 on a towel in the oven for 5 minutes. (I removed the slide before doing this) Three of the four screws came right out, but the fourth seems to have been slightly stripped from the previous owner, and the hex wrench was too loose to break the Loctite that was found on the other screws. I figured I had one more shot before having to bring it to the local gunsmith, so back in the oven for one more heat cycle, and I tried a star tip just a little bigger than the now slightly rounded hex hole. A couple of light taps to seat the star into the hole, and the screw finally came out. I agree with several comments that it's better to just snug the screws after a range session rather than risk stripping the threads, so I cleaned out the Loctite residue, and put the new screws in with a normal torque. The grips look great, and I'm grateful to the experts on the forum for sharing their tips!
-
Glad it worked out for you; for future reference just apply a heated small tip soldering iron to each screw head.
-
This is the only grip screw thread that I'm aware of so I'm posting my comments here.
I've heard it said that the grip screws don't loosen up except for firing (or a lot of dry firing). But I've been carrying my R9 in 5.11 Select Carry Pistol Pouch and they have loosened up on their own.
First of all, I am in Illinois and we don't have concealed carry yet, but we do have something that is often referred to as container transport. Container transport allows you to transport a firearm on your person as long as it is unloaded (empty chamber, no loaded magazine in the magazine well).
So I have been carrying my R9 in the 5.11 Select Carry Pistol Pouch a lot, including jogging and biking and the pack was really designed for larger pistol so the R9 is not quite as snug as it could be. Certainly not as snug as it would be in a good pocket holster. But even if the pistol was super snug - it gets a lot of vibration while biking, I know my body does so some of that must be transmitted to the pack and the pistol...
Anyway, the R9 has been in the pack for the last 30 days. I've inspected it a few times for lint or dirt and haven't seen any but I didn't clean it or inspect the screws and when I took it out yesterday to do some dry firing I did check the screws and noticed that they were loose.
I ordered some alloy screws and O-rings, but I just wanted to share my experience.
-
There has been a lot of discussion on screws and whether they are too loose or frozen in place from corrosion or over torquing: my opinion is that they can always be tightened if loose but it can be a trip to the factory otherwise. Rohrbaugh must err on the side of too tight or the R9 may not function due to its design.
The O-Rings and alloy screws have positively addressed this issue, in my opinion.
-
I agree with Tracker's remarks.
I have long advocated using O-rings under the R9's grip screws:
http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/index.php?topic=2714.msg27786;topicseen#msg27786
http://www.rohrbaughforum.com/index.php?topic=6045.msg72956;topicseen#msg72956
Our member, Yankee, now offers O-rings through the Forum's Classified Section.
[Edited typos & added second link.]